By Harold Payson
Simply outfitted boats for amateurs. contains 3 stitch-and-glue designs-a strategy that permits the plywood seams to be "taped" including fiberglass and resin rather than steel fastenings-and 3 traditional designs equipped with no jig.
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Additional resources for Build The New Instant Boats
Always measure the catalySt and resin each time, and don't play guessing games. In general, a teaspoon of catalyst to a pint of polyester resin in a working tern- perature of 60 to 70 degrees works fine. For hotter, drier weather use a bit less catalyst, for colder weather, a bit more. Stick with the same size mixing containers, so you will know the amount you are mixing each time. After a while, you'll be able to judge just how much to mix to complete each particular job. School lunch provides my containers.
So far you've been working bottom up, but once this assembly is stiff enough you turn it right side up and fill and tape the interior seams. The order of these steps may vary according to the size of the boat and the builder's preference. The result is a smoothly curved hull with a multi-chine form, which approximates the form of a round-botwmed boat in those examples with more numerous panels or strakes and therefore more numerous chines. One variation of this technique calls for stitching with wire instead of tacking with nails.
Striking the waterline the easy wayan the full-size Gypsy. You'll want to refer back to this drawing from the next chapter. Ii WAT£RLlNE. GAUGE. " If not, I'll say it for you, and let's do it-easily, quickly, and accurately. And in the process, you'll learn how to do it just as easily on the full-size Gypsy when you've finished her. Examine the body view of Gypsy just to the right of her profile view on the plans. This is the see-through view from which you took the patterns for the transverse bulkheads, using the drawings of the frame molds.